Turtuk: The Indian Baltistan

A Balti culture in a Muslim village in the Indian Sub Continent –the last Indian Village, Turtuk welcomes you with its Ladakhi elegance. Nestled in the Trans Himalayas in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh, with its Tibetian essence, in recent days is attracting tourists from across the Globe. It has become one of the favourite summer holiday destinations for tourists and even riders. Tour guides on Leh Ladakh is widely available in internet, so I am not being comprehensive on it. Rather today I will take you to a less touched Ladakhi village, beyond the intervention of regular tourists, where people are social enough without any internet connection, where people are well versed to technologies to carry out their regular livelihood. Turtuk, the last village in the northern part of India carries its raw beauty amidst the mighty Karakoram Range. The fast flowing icy blue Shyok River, the small patches of green meadows on the river banks, the barren mountain ranges, the warm wooden houses with traditional Ladakhi essence, the war memorials standing with the remains of our war heroes, defines Turtuk.

The Dark green patches near the mountain
 is the Pakistani Village Fraono

Turtuk is among the four villages of Baltistan that falls under the Indian province. Other three villages of Baltistan that falls under the Indian Sub Continent are Thang, Tyakshi and Halunkha. Over the mighty Khardungla Pass, Turtuk is a village enveloped by Karakoram Mountains with the Siachen Glacier on one side and Indo-Pak border on another. The village is located on the bank of the Shyok River which flows into Indus in Pakistan.

Locals in Turtuk

Baltistan, also known as Baltiyul or Little Tibet is a mountainous region pillowed by Karakoram ranges and is just south of K2 (the world’s second highest mountain). Prior to 1947, Baltistan was part of the Princely State of Jammu and Kashmir, but now it mainly comes under Pakistan Occupied Kashmir. Turtuk itself was a part of POK until 1971 when the Indian army took over this village from Pakistan occupied Kashmir and the nationality of the local people changed overnight. Since then, many of the locals couldn’t meet their family members who are on the other side of the mountains. It is really very hard to comprehend the pain that the locals had to endure since then.



During your tour to Leh, you need to keep 2 days extra for Turtuk. The first day will be a 205 km journey from Leh to Turtuk via Hunder. The road traverses through the mighty Khardungla Pass which is the highest motor-able road in the world. Crossing the Khardungla pass you will reach the land of double humped camels – Hunder in Nubra Valley, where you can spend few hours playing with the white sand dunes and take a ride on the double humped camels. Then you have to cover another 90 km to reach the Indian Baltistan.

On reaching the village, you will be amazed to see the raw beauty and quaint of the Ladakhi village. On the bank of the icy blue Shyok river, Turtuk holds the Tibetian flavour in its air. The sounds of the fast flowing river kissing the stones, the horses grazing on the valleys, the apricot trees along the Shyok bank, the village is surrounded by the barren mountains on all side with the giant (K2) peeping from the above.



Amidst the picturesque landscape, villagers in Turtuk too echo the similar beauty in terms of warmth and hospitality. They will open up to you with utmost hospitality, sharing their stories with you. While taking a walk across the narrow lanes, the green valleys you will come across a Royal Building amidst fruit orchards. This is the Royal Palace of the Yabgo Dynasty which is still standing in the middle of the village with its Crown held high.


Kacho Khan, the last descendant of the Yabgo dynasty is currently taking care of this Royal Crown. Kacho Khan is a nice person and once you are there in his palace, he will detail you about the Yabgos with utmost hospitality.

The Royal Palace

In the evening visit the local Tibetian handicraft markets. Observe their lifestyle, their culture, even you can try some delicious Ladakhi street foods. You can also spend some time sitting on the
bank of the Shyok River under the starry sky.
Leaving the concrete lifestyle, spending few moments on the bank of a fast flowing river as it burbles with every kiss with the rocks during its course of journey. This river is the main source of water for the entire Turtuk region and also few villages in the Pakistan province. Ignoring the Nationalities, this is how Our Mother Earth Nurtures us.

Natural fridge in Turtuk used for storing
Yak Cheese

Our second day in Turtuk will be to visit the last point in the Northern part of the Indian Province – Tyakshi and Thang. Post breakfast, leave the village of the Yabgos and proceed towards the Indo-Pak Border. Tyakshi is at a distance of 5km from the Turtuk village and it takes 20mins to reach the Tyakshi Army Check Point.

The Turtuk Village was opened for tourists at late 2010, while Tyakshi and Thang were opened very recently. The road beyond Turtuk is typically for the travellers and not for general tourists. Keeping the Karakorum on one hand and Siachen on the other, although the border road is a complete picturesque, yet it is full of uncertainties. Thang is another 5 km from the Tyakshi checkpoint and it is the last point in the Northern Part of the Indian Sub Continent. To move further towards Thang, you have to handover your original ID proofs in the Army Check Point in Tyakshi.

The Indian Tri-Colour in Tyakshi

Tyakshi will definitely give you Goosebumps with its absolute picturesque of the entire region. On one hand the Indian Tri Colour will be flying high, the Indian Regiment having an ongoing parade session under our Tri Colour, and then you will find the mountain in front of you as the Pakistan occupied Kashmir.
Overall the ambiance in the last point of this country will give you a mixed feeling- Patriotism topped with Adventure.
The picturesque beauty of the landscape together with the bombardments that the village had faced in the past wars, the stories of the war heroes, the uncertainties through it passes on a regular basis and the utmost hospitality of the Balti villagers; Turtuk is a village which is worth of getting a 2 day space in your tour schedule.

Haji Mohammed Issu of Turtuk, who worked as a porter for the Pakistan Army and continued to do the same job for the Indian Army after 1971. His uncle and his cousins live across the Line of Control in Pakistani-held territory.

Now it’s time to bid Good Bye to those Army Men who are in a 24*7 service for our nation. For whom we are having a peaceful sleep every night. This place will surely teach you the sacrifices of our war heroes, how they served us in the past, and how they are still serving this nation. While we are visiting this place with our families, for them getting a glimpse of their family person is of great luck. Now it’s time to return back to our daily life among the concretes with a heart full of Patriotism.

Anirban Chakraborty

acanirban90@gmail.com