Visitor's Post: From Hills, masked dance to Palash Flowers: Stories of Purulia



When Traffic jam and corporate buildings become part of everyday life,we all crave for a weekend getaway and Purulia, the land of Palash flowers and Chau dance is a perfect choice for a 2 days trip from Kolkata, West Bengal.

We, a group of seven members started our journey to Purulia on Friday night and reached station the day after. The cab arrived and took us to the Ajodhya hilltop through the zigzag hilly roads where our cottage was already booked in an area surrounded by sal, mahuya, piyal trees. After having our breakfast We started our trip through Ajodhya hill area.


Day 1:
Marble Lake:
Our first destination of the day was the beautiful Marble Lake, surrounded by several majestic hills .
The cobalt blue coloured picturesque water, mild breeze and the hills gives an ample scope to spend sometime in the laps of Mother Nature, click wallpaper like photographs as well.


Bamni Falls and Turga Dam:
After that we started our journey for Bamni Falls situated near Bagmundi. The way to Bamni is quite steep. After walking for some time we got the beautiful view of Bamni Falls flowing through the hills. We stood there for some time, enjoyed the view and then started our journey towards another falls, named Turga.  Turga Dam is just a few yards away from the falls, where the pumped storage project is ongoing to utilize the water of Turga Nala for power generation.
The serene view of this place makes tourist spend a some time here.



Khairabera Dam:
Khairabera Dam is another attraction of Purulia. It is on Khaira River. The place gives ultimate solace and peace. There is tranquility all over this place; we sat near the river sometime enjoying the solitude, away from daily hustles of the city.




Charida Village:
Charida village, snuggled at a corner of Purulia is definitely another jewel on the crown of this district. It is the center of mask artists of  Chhau  , a worldwide  popular dance form of Purulia and one among the UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage lists. As a child I always loved masks and those chhau masks are made in reference of the characters of Hindu Mythology mainly like Durga, Kali, Shiva, Kartik, Ganesha, Asura etc . Masks of tribal couples and Kathakali are also very popular. We visited different mask shops and had a chat with the artists. We saw the lifeless mask becoming full of life with the perfect touch of the rang tuli (painting brush) by this incredible artists. This masks are made of paper pulp and soil initially, then after drying they are decorated with jari, pearls, glitters etc to make it more vibrant and colourful.

After buying several masks, We left this colourful place and started for our next destination, Pakhi Pahar which had  quite  an interesting history.


Pakhi Pahar:
On our way to Pakhi Pahar, the greenery outside the window was mesmerizing. The sal, piyal trees were standing tall all over this place, the smell of the wild flowers made this journey more beautiful. After an hour and half , we finally reached Pakhi Pahar, which is a  dream project of Chitta Dey, a sculptor and  veteran artist . His idea was to bring life in the lifeless rocks in the form of art. Different birds, animals motifs are carved on the rocks  which is a treat to any art lover’s eyes.The safety ropes and cages are still seen hanging from the hills which were once used to do the sculpture. The rock is in the midst of the sal forest, the mysterious sound of leaves while the wind passes gives goose bumps and creates a thrilling environment all around.

After this thrilling experience it was time to wrap up the trip with the view of sunset. So,without wasting any moment we started for our final destinations of Day1, Upper dam ,Lower dam and Mayur Pahar or Peacock hill.

Mayur Pahar:
Mayur pahar or peacock hill as the name suggests, should be an abode of our national bird peacock. But alas! No peacock is there in this hill.

From this place we can enjoy the view of sun setting in the west, birds chirping and returning to home, the mystic wind and the majestic red shades of sky.

With bidding goodbye to sun we also ended our journey for the day and returned back to the cottage waiting for the next day’s adventure.
A view from Mayur pahar

Day 2:
Day 2 started with the alarm at 6 am, but this time without procrastinating I woke up and got ready for our last day trip around Purulia.

Our second day started with Murguma Dam, which is quite  a few miles away from Ajodhya hilltop. On our way to Murguma Dam from Ajodhya we  had a chance take peek into several tribal villages, their neat, clean and folk art decorated mud houses, farmers ploughing the lands, the mud pots hanging from date trees. After a few kilometers drive through the road having unique bends and geometrical curves, we got to see the panoramic view of Murguma Dam, the place is  unique and beautiful in every way. The place where you have no network, no pings in all the social media accounts, where you can spend your lone time with mother nature sitting at the dam side and enjoying the view of this place. But as we had time bound, we left this place after sometime and started for our journey for Purulia township area.

On our way to Purulia township area we surpassed the green meadows, sugar cane growing in fields, schools of Panchayet area and what not. But all we wanted was a glance of palash tree full of red coloured vibrant and bright Palash flowers, blazing like the flames of fire.

But the driver told may be we won’t find much luck as spring is yet to arrive. We felt a little bit sad but did not lose hope.  We kept looking outside the window and after crossing a few miles finally Baba shouted “Look outside. It’s there.” A palash tree with bloomed flowers all over its branches. We told driver to stop there for some time and ran to that field at a rush.

A few men and women were working in the field. One women came forward and asked with a bright smile on her face “Are you from Kolkata? How far is it?”

We talked with her and she also suggested a few picture perfect poses with Palash. Other men and women also came forward and welcomed us.

The moment was priceless. In an unknown place, some unknown people suddenly became so near to us and gifted us the memories which we will cherish forever.  We gave them sweets and chocolates, They invited us to their houses. We picked palash flowers with their help and got a bag full of red palash. We left the place with the sweetest memory of the day.

After we reached to Purulia township area, we packed some snacks and started our journey to Jaychandi pahar, famous as the shooting spot of Satyajit Ray’s classic “Hirak rajar deshe”.

There are around 500 stairs to reach the top of the hill where a Chandi mandir and Bajrangbali mandir is situated. There is also a tunnel which leads to a secret path to Kashipur Rajbari as the local people say.  Behind the Jaychandi pahar there is Sitakund, which tells several years old mythological story.

According to locals, It was the place in Ramayana from where King Ravana was taking Sita in his rath, while Sita was shouting and crying for the help from Ram and Lakshmana .Teardrops of Sita fell in this place and created the Sita kund. They also said water never dries in Sita Kund. It is regarded as holy water.

With the aroma of history and mythology Jaychandi Pahar is a must visit in Purulia. We also had awesome lunch there at Jaychandi  resort and hotel .

We set out for another historical place Garpanchkot, which was ruled by Deo dynasty .But in mid 18th century the Bargis attacked this place and almost ruined everything.

It is said that 17 queens committed suicide in the nearby well to protect their honour.

We saw the dilapidated structure of Pancharatna temple which has motifs like the terracotta temples of Bishnupur.  This place has its own charms and tells us the uncanny history which can never be known but can only be imagined.

At the end of the trip we felt fascinated by the wealth of history in our own West Bengal.

And we ended our trip with visit to Baranti dam where  we got the view of beautiful sunset .

The shadow of hills and crimson red sun make a picturesque view in this place.

It is difficult to sum up Purulia in one word.  Whether you are a nature lover, Hill lover, culture venture or someone who just need a break from monotonus life to find the inner peace and voice, this place won’t disappoint you at all. A trip mixed with different flavours and that's too in West Bengal.

A palash tree standing  with all its glory.

Garpanchkot in ruined state.


Booking Details:
For best places to stay:
Malabika ,Niharika and other govt tourist lodges at Ajodhya hilltop.
Please check Purulia govt websites for details of trip planning.


Author Bio:
Diya is a software engineer by profession, occasional writer and painter by passion. Have keen interest in history, environment, culture of India and trying to find it through people,places, food and architecture.

Name: Diya Bandyopadhyay
Email: idiyabandyopadhyay@gmail.com


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